Day 1  14.1.05

A very long day. I remember why I hate flying now. Very cramped and boring although the two films were quite good (Taxi & The Notebook). I will fly first class next time! I had trouble talking to the Ecuadorian woman next to me which made me realise how little Spanish I knew. I think she may have had false teeth that maybe put me off.

Finally made it to the hostel I had booked. They had not heard of me let alone my reservation I booked. I am now at a hostel that is not in the book. At least it is cheap! The thin air is slightly noticeable but I don’t seem affected by it all.

Day 2  15.1.05

After waking up every hour from 2am, I got up at 6.30(probably nearer 7) to get a $20 organised trip. Met my first American girl. Don’t rate my chances. She is 70. Also met a nice Norwegian couple and an English girl with facial hair.

The tour took us to Otovale market first of all- used a bit of the lingo and bought dos jugos and two mangoes. Had issues eating the mangoes. Also saw lots of shrunken monkey heads! Noticed I am about a foot taller than all Ecuadorian people. I feel like a giant!

We then went to some nice waterfalls and climbed up to the top of one. The american girl fell into a stream!

Had a traditional Ecuadorian meal consisting of meat, potatoes, plantain and corn. Very nice.

Last stop a lake in the crater of an inactive volcano. Bought a weird fruit on the way back: Cherimoya. Note: get mum to buy some!

Went out with Norwegian couple back in Quito and strange american/ecuadorian for dinner. Had sushi! See you in hospital!

Day 3  16.1.05

Had two foods that I haven’t eaten before in years; scrambled egg; because there was nothing else for breakfast, banana; because it would have been rude to say no, not bad, could grow to like these, may try more. I went to El mitad del mundo with the Norwegian couple today- the GPS correct equator, not the tourist one. Very interesting sundials and traditional house. We did experiments such as water spiralling down a hole, clock-wise in the northern hemisphere, anti-clock-wise in the southern hemisphere and straight down on the equator. Another was that it was easier to pull apart a persons fingers, when barely touching, on the equator rather than the northern hemisphere. On the way back we missed our stop and ended up at the top of the hill overlooking Quito which has the Virgin de Quito. A place where violent muggings happen. Luckily we got a taxi back down again. Had Argentinean steak for dinner. F’ing lovely.

Day 4  17.1.05

Starting to regret buying this lemon/mint toothpaste. What can I say about today? How could I have known all the museums would be closed? Went into the only one open: Museo Amazonica and had a 90 minute tour in spanish because nobody spoke english there. Interesting. Went to the old town and la basilica. Thinking about murdering my chinese roommate.

Day 5  18.1.05

Also regret taking shower gel that leaks everywhere. Went to the very, very good Museo del Banco Central in the morning. Lots of interesting information and artefacts from South American history. On its own it would have been great but I was followed round by a group of schoolgirls which made it better!

Note to me: don’t believe the book’s travel duration pages. After a long uncomfortable but scenic journey I arrived here in Banos a lot later than I planned. Decided to pay a bit extra and get an individual room after another bad night’s sleep with the chinese asshole.

After leaving the relative luxury of Quito, have noticed a few problems with this country. We drove through the outskirts of Quito and surrounding towns. The centre is comprised of big office blocks for the banks etc and big maintained mansions all with armed guards. Yet the poor live only a few miles away in shantytowns with no facilities and have to come to the centre to beg for food and money. How can a country exist with two such extremes so close to one another? A large proportion of the children seem to be working instead of school, things such as cleaning shoes, sweeping the gutters (particularly the Pan Americana) or on market stalls. Anyway I am on holiday so it shouldn’t bother me…

Day 6  19.1.05

Great day! Hired a bike and cycled down (plus a hell of a lot of up!) the valley. Because of the altitude I couldn’t breathe going up some of the hills. No wonder the ecuadorian cyclists are good in the tour de france. Fantastic scenery and waterfalls, you can just imagine the Incas walking up and down these mountains. Had a much needed in the hot baths in the town when I got back. I have had two shitty meals here but I can’t complain because they cost well under £5 together. Really enjoyed today and looking back I would say that my holiday started on this day. I was feeling more awake after recovering from jet lag and getting up so early every day in england and the sunshine was constant all day.

Days 7 & 8  20, 21.1.05

What can I say about these two days then?! The jungle has blown me away. A great experience. Went with two Swiss girls, Lisa and Fabien and our guide Gonzalo. Drove into the jungle to our first stop; a jungle lodge on the Rio Puyo. After lunch we hiked on some jungle trails to an enclosed waterfall with pool below. Caught glimpses of monkeys, birds, butterflies, spiders and fish on the way. After arriving back we went across the river to meet an indigenous tribe and got our face painted and learnt how they make clay pots and paint them with natural materials from the jungle. We then sailed down the river on a canoe to another jungle lodge on the Rio Pastaza. An amazing place with wooden hut built on stilts, hammocks, a beach and loads of animals. A cool dog called Minchita. Oh and a hot Ecuadorian girl called Merda(something close to that). Got very drunk on rum cocktails with our guide. So drunk in fact I considered swimming in the river, which was now a flood of rapids due to monsoon style rain. Glad I didn’t get in that! Trying to get to sleep with the rain, thunder and lightening was a different experience. Also got woken up by the damn dog running into my hut. We got woken up way too early and walked to the mirador de Inti-Christ. From this you can see for hundreds of miles across the jungle to the horizon which was a backdrop of the huge mountains of the Andes. Spent the last few hours in this jungle paradise sunbathing and swimming in the slightly calmer river. Said goodbyes and fell asleep on the bus home. Decided to change hostals in Banos, not many had free rooms so I have ended up at the cheapest, dirtiest, smelliest place ever. The room is like a prison and the bathroom is, well I bet prisons have better bathrooms so it’s worse than that. Will decide my plan of action tonight on a few beers…

Day 9  22.1.05

Met up with Gonzalo and the swiss girls last night and went to a salsa club. Don’t think I performed too badly on the dance floor. Maybe it was my teacher, an Ecuadorian barmaid called Roxanna in Spanish and Kindi in Quechua. Woke up with bite marks from this crappy hostel bed despite me being in my sleeping bag. Had to move. Walked up the mountain overlooking the town and went swimming in the afternoon. My plan now is to go to the jungle party/festival thing with gonzalo tomorrow and then go back to the jungle lodge and see Merda the day after and return the day after that. Plenty of time, no problem.

Days 10, 11, 12  23, 24, 25.1.05

Most of these words are what I felt at the time but have included some thoughts now after I have recovered.

I will start with the good news, had another wicked night out in Banos, was basically on my own as Gonzalo never came out (should have learnt from this). First sat in a bar for a few beers on my own overlooking the street. It was a Saturday night and it seemed the whole town was out to party. Then went back to the salsa club and within seconds of getting in there I was surrounded by girls! Again I think my dancing wasn’t too bad as I had dance partners lined up. Obvious favourite was Kindi. Try not to think about this mistake too long. Also met Asher (something close to that). Wasn’t feeling at my most awake when I checked out of the hotel the next day after about 4 hours sleep. Was on my way out of there when I met Gonzalo and decided to go to his family’s festival. Mistake but was thinking of other things. Compared to the good news this is bad. Glad I stayed in Banos the previous day but why I went to this I don’t know. It was a fascinating experience and one I think a lot better of now I am typing this up and am actually glad I did it. It was interesting to see how these people live. You never think of the thousands of people living in the jungle who don’t depend on anyone else other than themselves ie their family. They lived in wooden houses with only a fire for heating and cooking. All the food has be grown, caught or bought with whatever little money they earn. The food was generally nice, mainly because I was really hungry. To be fair most people were really warm and accommodating to me. They could have reacted so differently to a foreigner in their home. I was given dancing lessons, food, alcohol and a wooden bed which was as comfortable as it sounds. Was offered bizarre things such as chickens, dogs and daughters. I kept have a paranoid vision of them killing and eating me then stealing my things. Seriously worried. The food was awful, fish head soup, dry plant potato stuff. If they ate better then maybe they wouldn’t be so small. We drank lots of Chicha. Fermented corn. If I smell it again I will be sick. It actually looked like sick. We had a live band with us. Three brothers with hygiene and teeth problems. Played some lovely tunes with pan pipes, guitar, sitar type thing and drums. Absolute ace night brought back to reality by an awful hangover. Some of them were back on the chicha the next morning. Hardcore. Met some more of the family and played volleyball in a mud bath. Got to wash clothes now. Shoes smell really bad. Started drinking something I can only imagine what aircraft fuel tastes like very early in the afternoon. Maybe if they did something other than drink then they might have more money. Another ace night due to being wasted, violently ill over the vegetable patch or something, at least it might have done some good. Again offered fruits of loins. Had a very cold, sobering, short nights sleep. The highlight of the whole 2 days was the view in the morning before the cloud appeared of the Andes. Words cannot describe something like this. I didn’t have my camera so no one will ever know how amazing this was. The top of the jungle trees giving way to huge, dominating backdrop of snow capped mountains for as far as I could see left to right. They looked very menacing and suddenly I didn’t want to be anywhere else. Sadly I wasn’t given much reflection or inner thought time and had to help gather some food. We missed the bus back, Jesus these people don’t have a clue. Laid back is not close enough. Realised I have not drank water in 3 days. The longest and most frustrating bus journey back. Had to pay for these losers. I will get the money back. Glad to be back in Banos. Had a massive pizza for dinner. Need to wash clothes and sleep. Days are getting fewer until Cusco and I haven’t got very far.

Day 13  26.1.05

It wasn’t really that bad the festival, I guess, I am glad I went. Probably just annoyed because I had a hangover for three days, including a banging headache today. After eating more substantial food aiding my recovery I decided to hire a horse. I went with the cheapest option in town and got a guide who didn’t speak English. It was the most painful experience of my life. A horse that wouldn’t do what I told it to do and the hardest seat ever. I don’t think children will be an option for me anymore. My plan in the evening was to go out and see off Banos in style. It didn’t work out like that as I had an awful headache so I slept from about 8pm.

Day 14  27.1.05

Woke up still feeling a bit jaded but what better way to cure that than spend a day on buses. It is a shame I am leaving Banos as I have unfinished there and I really liked the place, and the bars! Time is ticking away so I must leave. I underestimated the journey time again, it didn’t look that far on the map, but we had to go up to the top of the Andes, into the clouds. I have seen everything on these buses now. Today, to go with musicians, a clown, animals, I had a man selling dental surgery. I am now at Quevedo. A shithole of a city and hotel. I think I went into a motel by mistake first, the woman mentioned something about by the hour!

Day 15  28.1.05

Another day spent on buses (6 hours). They were not made for European men. No legroom. They are old US school buses and are very dodgy. Met a couple of girls on the buses. One spoke very good English; she started learning aged 5! I am now in Puerto Lopez. First thought: shithole. It is not just Quito with the slums. Second thought after walking around: could be quite nice if it had any money. Nice beach, nice scenery just a shame about the building. Hotel is nice. There seem to be only 3 hotels, about 4 restaurants and 2 shops. I think I am the only tourist here.

I have seen the Pacific Ocean for the first time!

Day 16  29.1.05

I was bored for the first time today. Thought I was going diving but no. Manana. Got the bus to a beach but didn’t want to pay $12 to go on it so came back and finished my book. Gone to bed hungry because there is no ATM and I have no money.

Day 17  30.1.05

Fantastic! It was what I have waited months for. Went Scuba diving to Isla Salango. Once I had got the hang of breathing underwater it was amazing, like flying! Saw loads of different fish, all bright colours. I saw turtles, held an octopus and blowfish, saw mantrays, eels, lots of shoals of fish swimming about the coral. Absolutely amazing. Wish I could have stayed down there. Had two trips below for just over an hour each. It was the only coral reef on that side of SA and was the most amazing experience ever.

Was really hungry, the watermelon they gave me was not enough but luckily I found a restaurant that took VISA. Got lucky on the menu this time and got fish and chips! What a great day!

Day 18  31.1.05

Manana fucking manana. The bank doesn’t do VISA until manana so stuck here another day. I owe the hotel, restaurant and diving company money now! Shall I just run away?! Read a whole book on the beach today. John Grisham’s NetForce. Not very good. When I am prefecto in this country the first thing I will do is drive around with a big bone to round up all the dogs and lead them all into a big hole to burn them all.

Day 19  1.2.05

Finally made it away from Puerto Lopez! VISA transaction went ok, should have got more there was no charge. Almost all gone now though! $150! I am now in Montanita. Strange place. Got the usual slums on the outskirts but the centre is all bamboo and wooden huts with bars, cafes, restaurants and surf shops. I haven’t seen too many backpackers as promised or many girls! Nice beach, I hope it’s sunny tomorrow. Had the biggest pizza ever tonight. Don’t even know why, I wasn’t hungry and it cost a lot. Sent postcards today.

Day 20  2.2.05

Lazy day. Had a nice pancake for breakfast. Tried to get surfing lesson. Maybe tomorrow. Don’t know why I feel like this but I do. Lazy, tired, couldn’t be bothered to talk to the Ecuadorian on the beach or the Americans in the restaurant. Can’t be bothered to go out now. Why? I don’t know. Had a beer. Not that. Had enough sleep. Not that. Although lying on a beach for 3 days is great, maybe I need to do something. Definitely surfing lessons tomorrow.

Day 21  3.2.05

3 weeks.

Didn’t make surfing lessons. Lazed around reading about Peru. Feel a bit better today. More energy. Walked to the point and got splashed by tsunami sized waves. Went to this beach campfire tonight which was cool, listening to Bob Marley having some Ecuador’s finest. Next edition in Cusco I hope!

Days 22, 23 & 24  4, 5 & 6.2.05

Estoy en Cusco! Found Patch easily enough at the airport. Three long days getting here. Bus to  La Libertad ok. Bus to Guayaquil ok. Bus to Machala ok. Machala not ok. Major trouble getting from where the bus dropped me off to where the next bus left from. Book no help at all. Machalato immigration ok. I was waiting for the next bus to the border when a double decker bus direct to Lima pulled up. I couldn’t refuse! So lucky this happened, fate? The border looked a nightmare, just one bridge with barbed wire all over the place and hundreds of people either side. Robbed? I would have been lucky to make it across with my clothes still on me. Next 20 hours to Lima not too bad. Met nice Venezuelan couple and once I finally made it out of the hold was able to see some fantastic scenery. Had issues in Lima.

Of all the taxi drivers I had to find the mad one, he was obviously on some sort of bribe from one travel agency as he kept trying to get me to fly with them. Anyway finally got a flight for 5.45am! I went to a reasonably expensive hotel but was pleased to have working shower etc and couldn’t be bothered to go anywhere else. Went out and had a decent dinner and few beers and managed found myself stood outside an electrical shop(I hadn’t seen one of these for a while) watching a premiership match for a while. The same mad taxi driver had arranged to pick me up and take me to the airport and as we pulled out into the main road as he was talking to me, he managed to hit two cars. A couple of dents but and it certainly woke me up.

I should have taken his biased advice and gone with his company as the 5.45 I was booked on got cancelled. Waited for a later one as that’s what people were saying but that got cancelled. All very confusing because my Spanish was not good enough to understand or be understood. Spent about 6 hours in that airport. Apparently the reason was the plane was not equipped to land at the altitude, but all of a sudden the flight was on, very scary as they probably didn’t do anything to the plane it was just told to fly. Anyway we made it and Cusco is nice apart from we have walked into a water throwing festival. We unfortunately got out of the taxi in the main square right into the centre of it.

Day 25 7.2.05

Met the famous Ambar today. He is a woman! Sorted out our Machu Picchu trip ok. Feeling the effects of the altitude slightly now. Feeling lethargic. Did the cultural thing today; visited the cathedral, an art museum and the Koricancha.

Found an Irish bar in the evening and went to a few cool clubs with the bar staff but without Patch. Met Frine. And paid 25 soles for a JD & coke!

Day 26 8.2.05

After roughly 2 hours sleep we went rafting. The river was 2 hours so it gave me a bit of time to shut my eyes. The rains have not come just yet so the river was lower than normal. It was great fun and very hard work! I fell in once because it was so tired, lucky to miss any of the rocks! Had a few hours of this and then a nice meal. Slept the rest of the day and had a quiet, early night.

Day 27 9.2.05

Got up unreasonably early to go on the Inca trail. The other people on the trip are nice; 3 English guys on a world tour, 2 older ones, and a Swede who knows about free diving. An easy first day walking, about 3 hours to the first campsite along flat terrain. Tried chewing coca leaves, didn’t do a lot and tasted awful.

Day 28 10.2.05

4 Weeks

Up early again. The food is good on this trip, had a big breakfast. Three hours walking in the morning and four in the afternoon. Fairly easy but very hot. Nice scenery. We are at the bottom of a steep, tree covered valley. It’s getting denser as we go. We had a good game of football at lunch half way up the mountain side – until Patch lost the ball that is! Played and lost the strange bottle top game in the evening to the young children who live on the campsite.

Day 29 11.2.05

Finally got on the Inca Trail. 400m up and hard work but worth it for the scenery. Walked past waterfalls and then Huinay Huayna. Walking up to IntiPunku was hard- 50 almost vertical steps but then at the top appeared Machu Picchu across the valley. Fantastic sight. Bigger than I imagined and a lot greener. It was literally perched on top of a mountain! Took the usual photos. Our campsite was at the bottom of that mountain and another equally as big. Went to the hot springs in Aguas Calientes to relax after a while. Tired of walking – out of practice. Rained overnight and flooded everyone’s tents but ours!

Day 30 12.2.05

Machu Picchu Day. We had a 2 hour guided tour with Marciel which very interesting but not long enough. So much to see. So many rocks that did things…! Some were ingenious ways of monitoring the sun and moon, amazing considering how long ago this was built. I then climbed Huayna Picchu with Max and Mat. Hard work but great view that not many people see. Also went to the Inca Bridge. Was amazed to see this thing built into the side of the cliff. Needed more time here. Could easily go back. Got a long train back and went out with everyone in the evening. Had to help Pete back to hotel as he was asleep in the club with two hours before his coach left!

Day 31 13.2.05

After not a lot of sleep had to do something to avoid feeling rough and the still ongoing water fight. Walked up to Sacsayhuaman. Impressive ruins. Couldn’t be bothered to go further, too tired. Last day here. Bought la cruz de Andea & a finger puppet! Patch was so ill I went out on my own. Had Alpaca meat. Very nice. Spent the night with Frine. Had a good night in a small bar talking. No dancing! Lovely girl, will miss here and Cusco. Wish I was here longer.

Day 32 14.2.05

10 hours on a bus. Nice views etc. in Arequipa. Met our tour rep – Ludwig – crazy. Romantic valentines meal!

Day 33 15.2.05

Got our bus to the Colca Canyon – 8 girls and me and Patch! 2 from Ireland ok, 2 from Korea, 4 from Chile, Yasna = fit! Long bus journey saw alpacas and llamas. I know the difference now! Went up to 4910m above sea level. Maybe the highest I have been. So far. We stay in Chivey. Smaller than Romsey but with a nice square, no chavs and thermal baths that we went to. No Chile girls though! Went out to watch typical music and dancing with dinner. Ok. Heard it all before. Made it back to the bar for happy hour.

Day 34 16.2.05

Got up at 5.00 am!! To drive to the Colca Canyon. Stopped at a few places on the way. Had my photo taken with an eagle on me. The Colca Canyon was very impressive. Not as wide as the grand canyon but deeper; 1200m. walked a long for a bit to get the views. Then waited for the Condors. No show for an hour then a couple of baby ones flew up. Not close enough to get a good photo. Ate a cactus fruit, surprisingly sweet. Nice weather and got on well with Yasna, yas! She unfortunately goes to Cusco tonight. She is what I want in England. Had lunch back in Chivey (cheap bread) and then the 4 hour journey back to Arequipa. Had another cheap meal (sandwiches from supermarket). Bed early.

Day 35 17.2.05

5 weeks

After reading the book about Arequipa about 5 times, still couldn’t find anything to do. Went on internet & good lunch & went to cinema. Watched Meet the Fockers. V good. Beer and bed.

Day 36 18.2.05

Another long hot bus journey. Only one more to go. In Puno now. 3870m. breathless place went down the road to the temple of fertility. Funny, see the photos! Had Cuy for dinner. Quite nice but not much meat. Another carnival here with water and foam! They’re everywhere!

Day 36 19.2.06

First day of Island trip. An older group on this tour. An English, ex teacher was probably the nicest. Very cold. First went to Oros Islands, made from tortora reeds. Weird feeling standing on a big floating island. Soft under foot. Had a trip in a reed raft. Was disappointed to see satellite dishes and phones on the islands! Then had a cold and rough boat journey to Aramantani Island. Stayed with a family on the island. The woman’s name was Teofila. Very small houses, we couldn’t stand up in them! Our guide took us up to the top of the hill for the sunset. Very, very cold. The meals were ok here; potatoes, eggs (I left), rice, vegetables and soup. Went to the hall in poncho and hat for traditional dancing and music. Again I had heard it before but this was quite good and enjoyable.

Day 38 20.2.05

Had to get up early again, pancakes for breakfast surprisingly. No soup or potatoes! Another rough journey to Taquile Island. This is the tourist island with shops and restaurants. Just walked up to the town centre and back down again. Nice boat journey back to Puno; sun and smooth. Had much needed pizza and drinks in the evening. No soup or potatoes! I’m sorry that its my last night in Peru. For now.

Day 39 21.2.05

Got up early. Again. Bus to Copacabana to cross the border. Had to stop for few hours there. Very nice little place. The sun was out and was warm (unlike Puno) and seemed a very relaxed little town. From here you go to the Sun and Moon islands. The bus to La Paz was cool. Had to cross narrow part of the lake on a ferry. Also met the Venezuelan couple again (from the Lima bus)! La Paz looked quite bad from the edge going in. not too bad in the centre. First task: find a hotel: Done easy. Second: get me a plane ticket to Rio: Not easy! Mucho dollares! After looking around for a while, asked tourist info and found out a bus to Sao Paulo takes only 24 hours and costs $100 or so. Must book it tomorrow. Couldn’t find a restaurant to save our lives. Had below average pizza but was so hungry. Tired…

Day 40 22.2.05

After a rare lie in, went in search of bus ticket. 24 hours to Sao Paulo – make that 90! That’s nearly 4 days! Only option: $200 flight like Patch. Booked it for Thursday. Had a surprisingly interesting city sour on an open top, bright red bus. Saw a few of the landmarks in La Paz and went to the moon valley. An area of clay like rock which was under sea and when the sea drained away it left a rock formation that looked like the moon. Also saw the Venezuelan couple again! Must change eating plan. Not getting enough food. There are no restaurants here.

Day 41 23.2.05

6 Weeks

Worked out very well getting the Thursday flight. Had a bad nights sleep due to the loud rain. Got up at 7. Still raining. Not good when you have a bike trip down the worlds most dangerous road (fact). Amazingly the Venezuelan couple were on this too! We reached to summit, just outside La Paz, of approx 4800m. It was cold, raining and above/in the clouds. The company we paid for this honour was different (cheaper) to everyone else’s meaning we had crap bikes, no water proof leggings, water instead of Coca Cola. The first few kilometres were unbearable. Absolutely freezing cold legs and hands. Soaked very soon. This section was tarmac and quite steep but not too dangerous, even had a few hills up. This all took us through the clouds to the dangerous section. This was a stone/gravel, one lane track cut into the side of the mountain. The occasional passing places were sparse. Great views from the road of an area similar to the sacred valley in Peru. Went through waterfalls and passed ravines. Great journey and not that dangerous at all. It was worse coming back up in the minibus. Had llama meat. Fantastic day and something ticked off list!

Day 42 24.2.05

Only had a 6 hour flight but it felt like we had travelled all day. Had a nice stay in the airport, not sure why but I didn’t mind waiting there. The highest international airport in the world. Our flight was 3 flights in 1. What a deal. La Paz – Santa Cruz – Sao Paulo – Rio de Janeiro. Arrived and got through about 10 pm Brazil time. Went straight to the hostel the three Reading lads told us about. Dumped our stuff and then straight out! Ended up in the sea at 6am – awesome!

Day 43 25.2.05

Not a lot of sleep. Felt terrible. Day at the beach. Brilliant beach; nice sand, lots of big waves. And of course the sun and women! Both great. Had a siesta then went to a street party. Was ok but got stuck with a bottle of whiskey but some idiot – met Ludmilla, lovely, sexy Brazilian girl!

Day 44 26.2.05

Again not a lot of sleep. Apologies for these diary entries, don’t think they will be the best. Made it up for breakfast. Went to the beach again. Watched Saints on TV and now just about to go out. Incredibly tired but its Rio!

Day 45 27.2.05

Watched sunrise on rock overlooking Ipanema beach with Pete and the hot girl Misty. Not sure if this entry should go down on yesterday’s entry or this one. Bit confusing all this no sleep stuff. Went to the beach again. In the evening went to the Maracana to see Vasco de Gama v Fluminense (2 -1). Good game, a bit slow though, but some great touches, even from the defenders! Romario played for Vasco. Great atmosphere. We were in the Fluminense end. On the way out there seemed to be a fight and heard a gunshot!

Day 46 28.2.05

Actually did something today! Surprising after very little sleep again. Went hang-gliding. Fantastic! A long wait at the top, just to build the tension I presume. Had to run down a ramp off the top of the cliff. Not at all nervous. Apparently a perfect take off. Spent 10 – 15 minutes circling and then landed on a beach. Not a perfect landing! Surely one of THE things to do in the world; hang glide off a cliff and land on a beach. In Rio!

Day 47 1.3.05

Had less than one hour sleep! Crazy night, again! Went on a city tour; visited a national park, the statue of Christ. Very interesting but quite cloudy. Need a night off.

Day 48 2.3.05

7 Weeks

Woke up feeling great! Such a nice feeling, makes a change. Made the most of it by going to the mall, Rio Sul, in the morning. Bought a Corinthians shirt and shorts. Only picked the Corinthians shirt as it looked the coolest, don’t know where they are, only know Carlos Tevez to play for them. Went on a favela tour in the afternoon. Really good. Went up a hill into the favela on the back of a motorbike and then walked down through the small streets and paths. Not as dilapidated as I imagined. Bought some artwork. Saw a gang of gangsters holding automatic guns and pistols!

Day 49 3.3.05

Rained all day. Went to the cinema and saw Closer. Pete, Max and Si were meant to leave but couldn’t get a ticket. Good night out, started at an English pub singing to a covers band. Didn’t get back till 7am again. Great to have those guys and Patch here, wouldn’t have done most of this stuff here without them.

Day 50 4.3.05

Today was another bit of a write off. Went to the beach for a bit. Everyone and Patch left. On my own for the first time in a while. Went out with aussie Mark to the Lapa street party. Much better this time, saw more and a great band. Also met Ludmilla again, Mark had camera stolen while doing some dodgy, mixed to hell coke.

Day 51 5.3.05

All this is starting to catch up with me now. V tired. Went to the police station with Mark and then the beach. Rained again. Got all souvenirs and stuff now. Went to a Brazilian dance club with Ludmilla, not sure what type of dancing this was, a type I couldn’t do.

Day 52 6.3.05

Another day at the beach. Can’t get enough of this. Misty left. Went to watch another futbol game: Flamengo v Botofogo. Went to see a concert of Brazilian bands on the beach with Ludmilla, perfect way to end…

Day 53 7.3.05

Had an afternoon flight and was a perfect day so quickly got down to the sugar loaf mountain and went up it. Absolutely perfect. Wondering why on earth I am going home, why is Romsey home…. Anyway: flight home, or halfway home at least.

Day 54 8.3.05

8 Weeks
Home. It’s snowing.

THE END